Carl Ganivet explores the macabre inspiration of renowned Parisian-based jeweller Lorenz Bäumer here.

As hoped, Gareth Pugh’s stellar video production has been accompanied by a succinct lookbook of his Autumn Winter 2009 Collection.

To view the lookbook in pdf form, please click here http://tinyurl.com/c2arzt

Ever preening and promoting his title of enfant terrible in European fashion, Gareth Pugh chose to forego a traditional defilé presentation for his Autumn Winter 2009/10 Collection, exhibiting his womenswear in an eight minute film before an eager fashion audience.

The film was a technically and visually exquisite artwork showcasing the sculptural, exaggerated silhouettes for which Pugh’s vision has become famous.
Directed by Ruth Hogben, the editing has a disconnected and jolting quality, supported by an eerie industrial soundtrack of tremulous bass and drum synthesizers. Treated in high contrast and with little colour, the piece features model Natasa Vojnovic performing a series of choreographed interpretive dances and runway walks.

Gauzy silk sheaths fly in the wind, trousers fall in dramatic sunray pleating, and a mushroom-like coat unzips to reveal a signature diamond print catsuit [as though a butterfly escaping its chrysalis]. Plumes of graphic smoke carve out a floor length black ball gown, long sleeved and  slashed across the bodice, its full skirt stiff with origami pleating. A slim suit jacket is shown with sculpted shoulder ‘turrets’ and skin tight sleeves, cropped at the waist and worn with flared floor length trousers.

Oversized mortarboard hats were tasselled and feathered; reminiscent of Geisha headpieces, further exploring a distinct Japanese aesthetic within the collection. Boots were flared at the knee with a severe stiletto, point heel and platform at the sole, the overall effect fetishistic and razor sharp.

To what may be Pugh’s most wearable and commercially viable collection to date, i pose the question: Why present in the least commercially accessible medium? Although this beautiful fashion film succeeds in providing a strong conceptual view of the designer’s aesthetic, this delivery method fails to engage fashion buyers, writers and public in the commercial reality of the range.

From seeing the film, it seems that Pugh has successfully produced an elegant and dramatic realisation of his grungy industrial aesthetic, but is it all smoke and mirrors?

Let us hope that a more traditional lookbook surfaces in the near future, to show us what Gareth Pugh A/W 09 is really made of.

To view the film, please click here http://tinyurl.com/dm6exb

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This monotone ensemble is a perfect example of highlighting your most striking features and accessories with a neutral palette. Chantelle is the proud bearer of an intricate chest-piece tattoo of a winged skull, and has successfully made it the crowning glory of her outfit by wearing all black, with powdery pale white skin. Calf-length Doc Martens and a balloon-sleeved hoodie add a sportswear twist.