When hordes of worshippers flood the streets in pilgrimage to Mecca, they do so on a well-trodden path – the cobblestones worn beneath the feet of millions who strive to reach the holy place. When a designer discovers their ‘Mecca’ – when their hordes follow season after season – why would they alter the route so far as to make the destination unreachable?

Over the past decade Rick Owens has delicately carved his signature into the dark and shadowy roots of the fashion tree, and today he presented a cohesive collection that acknowledged this past and nodded towards a stark, bright future.
His army of ashen faced waifs were a slender vision of monochromatic tiers, each look with an ease of layering that allowed his exquisite fabrics and simple draping silhouettes to shine without fuss. Blackest black, arctic grey and a subtle shimmering pearl were his tones of choice, a possible nod to the chilly economic climate [but for Rick, a silver lining!].

A fluted A-line was carried through all outerwear, with some jackets exhibiting a take on the peaked shoulder beloved by Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin, also shown earlier this morning at Balenciaga. Zippers were slashed down the chest on jackets cut in paper-thin calf leathers, dull silk satins, and a geometrically embroidered wool [a texturally appealing new fabric that is sure to hold editorial appeal]. Owens experimented with length too; blousons cropped at the bust let ruched jersey dresses and flanged aprons peek out beneath, asymmetrical silk gilets fell knee-length in subtle ruffles, and coats carved away at the ribcage sweeping to a tail at the back.

A loose ribbed legging and banded miniskirt in leather or silk formed the base for most looks; last Fall’s thigh-high flared platform boot was reworked with fins, downsized to calf length, or bell-bottomed in palest grey. Accessories as usual were sparse, mantle gloves extended jacket sleeves, and cashmere headbands were trimmed in goathair and fur – crowning Owens’ warrior princesses with an eerie halo.

At first glance this collection may seem repetitive and recycled, but on closer inspection proves the subtle conceptual and evolving genius of  Rick Owens. It is the dichotomy of drama and subtlety, the matte and the shine, the light and the dark, a veritable power struggle between grunge and glamour that is best encapsulated  [as coined by the man himself] – “glunge”.

Images courtesy of catwalking.com